Let me tell you about one of my favorite hiking routes in the Anaga mountains, full of adventure and breathtaking views through the Barranco Seco tunnels and abandoned water channels.
We start our journey in the village of Punta del Hidalgo, in the Homicián district. Long ago, according to legend, the famous pirate (or merchant-smuggler) Amaro Pargo used to recruit his crew here for his ship. Hence the ominous name of the district — «homicián» which means «murder» in Old Castilian. However, the locals are quite friendly and welcoming.
Amaro Pargo Rodríguez de la Rosa (1678-1747) was a legendary figure in the history of the Canary Islands, a merchant, privateer, and philanthropist. He was born in San Cristóbal de la Laguna on Tenerife to a wealthy family. After inheriting a fortune, Amaro Pargo became a successful trader and later a privateer, plundering enemy ships under license from the Spanish crown during the wars with England and the Netherlands. His fame and wealth grew, and his charitable donations and construction projects earned him the respect of his fellow citizens. After his death, Amaro Pargo was buried in the church of Santo Domingo in La Laguna, and legends of his adventures and treasures still captivate the minds of Canarians and visitors to the islands.
Our route follows the dry riverbeds of two ravines (barrancos) — Barranco Seco and Barranco del Rio. But the highlight of the hike is the sections along the old water canals and aqueducts. Be careful, there are warning signs, but if the weather is good, and you’re not afraid of heights, walking along them is completely safe, it’s really cool.
The canal above Barranco Seco is well-preserved, it’s wide enough to make walking along it a pleasure. You won’t break your legs or hit your head. Occasionally the trail dips into short tunnels (a flashlight might come in handy), and at times you’ll need to duck to avoid scraping your head on the rocks. But what views open up from the canal! The ravine and mountains are right there in front of you. Crossing a bridge and a 100-meter tunnel, we emerge at the riverbed of Barranco Seco and climb up to the top along a steep, winding trail. Looking back, we can see the path we took along the canal far below. There’s even a semblance of a mountain stream down there, with actual water.
Further on, our trail merges with the official PR TF 11 route. Through the village of Bejia, the smallest hamlet in the Anaga mountains, we climb to the highest point of the hike. Since the 18th century, Bejia has been an important place for goat herding. Fresh cheese was made here from goat, cow, and sheep’s milk, which was then carried and sold all the way in La Laguna. And from here, you get a wonderful view of both ravines — Barranco Seco behind and Barranco del Rio ahead.
This device allows for the transportation of cargo in hard-to-reach mountain areas. It consists of metal baskets that move along cables with the help of a winch. These lifts are widely used in Anaga on Tenerife to deliver food, construction materials, and other necessary items to remote places where there are no roads.
On the way back, we pass by the El Morro volcano (or Volcan de Las Rozas). This is a young (just 100,000 years old) volcano in the ancient Anaga mountain range. When it was born, its lava flowed towards the coast, forming a flat platform or Isla Baja, on which Punta del Hidalgo now stands.
We finish the hike back in Punta del Hidalgo. The route might not be very long, around 12 km, but it’s quite packed and varied. Ups and downs, canals and tunnels, breathtaking landscapes and historical sites. I highly recommend it to all lovers of adventure and outdoor activities!