Buen Retiro Park

Buen Retiro Park (Parque del Buen Retiro) or simply El Retiro is a favorite spot for Madrid residents to relax, a symbol of the capital, and a cultural heritage site in Spain. It is a vast green area covering approximately 1.4 km2, featuring buildings from the 17th to 19th centuries, magnificent fountains and sculptures, pathways lined with strawberry trees, a lake, cafes, and playgrounds.

How the park came to be

The park’s name has a religious origin. During the time of Philip II, this area contained several crown-owned buildings used for prayer and meditation. The place of worship was called Buen Retiro, which translates to «good retreat.»

In 1632, the ambitious favorite of King Philip IV, Duke of Olivares, decided to remove his weak-willed patron from state affairs by diverting his attention to balls and festivities. For this purpose, he ordered the prayer chambers to be transformed into a luxurious palace, inheriting the name Buen Retiro. The park laid out around the choir by Italian masters received the same name.

The palace was used for entertainment by Philip V and Charles III. The rulers also took care of the park, which acquired features of new styles according to the monarchs’ preferences.

In 1808, Buen Retiro became the center of battle during the French assault on Madrid. The buildings suffered significant damage, and the greenery was entirely destroyed by the invading enemy. The palace was never to be reborn, but the park was luckier. Ferdinand VII and subsequent kings ordered new pathways to be laid, flowerbeds to be planted, and pavilions to be built in its territory. In 1869, Buen Retiro was nationalized, and residents of the city were allowed to visit it.

Buen Retiro today

From the old palace, only two structures remain – the ballroom Casón del Buen Retiro, which now houses a branch of the Prado Museum, and the ceremonial hall Salon de la Reynos, where the Spanish Army Museum is located.

The central composition of the park is the magnificent equestrian statue of Alfonso XII by José Grases Riera, rising on a pedestal above the lake and embraced by a semicircular colonnade. The project was commissioned by Queen Regent Maria Christina, and the monument was erected in 1922 during the reign of Alfonso XIII. The memorial is adorned with sculptural allegories of freedom, peace, homeland, army, and navy. Over twenty famous sculptors participated in the composition’s creation.

Since 1874, the Casa de Vacas Pavilion has stood in the park. Its name translates to «House of Cows.» Initially, it was an exhibition barn where anyone could admire horned dairy beauties and enjoy their products. Nowadays, the pavilion showcases works of art.

Two other notable structures in the park are the Crystal Palace and the Velázquez Palace, created in the late 19th century by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco. The first housed a greenhouse of plants from the Philippine Islands, then a Spanish colony, while the latter was dedicated to metallurgy and mining.

The park’s avenues are adorned with three beautiful fountains. One of them, the «Fallen Angel» by Ricardo Bellver, is the only monument in the world dedicated to the devil. The sculptural composition is devoted to the theme of Lucifer’s expulsion from paradise.

The Galapagos Fountain was constructed under the direction of José de Mariategui in honor of the birth of Isabella II. The three-tiered ensemble is adorned with figures of dolphins, turtles, frogs, and angels, from which streams of water flow. The composition is topped with a snail – a symbol of patience and fertility.

The «Artichoke» Fountain, created by Ventura Rodríguez, symbolizes spring. In its central part are sculptures of children supporting a dish with artichokes.

The park is home to thousands of types of greenery, including the strawberry tree, which is a symbol of Madrid and is depicted on its coat of arms.

Park map

How to get to Buen Retiro Park?

Take the metro to Atocha station (line 1), Ibiza (line 9), or Retiro (line 2). You can also reach the park by buses 1, 2, 9, 15, 19, 20, 51, 52, 74, 146, 202.